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WHITE LEATHER GLOVES

These gloves presumably belonged to a member of the Dohrn family, founded by Anton Dohrn, first Director of the Zoological Research Institute established in March 1872.

Anton Dohrn was born in Szczecin, Pomerania, part of today’s Poland, in 1840, in an upper-middle class family. He studied zoology and medicine in several German universities, albeit without much enthusiasm.

His ideals changed in the summer of 1862, when he came to Jena and met Ernst Haeckel, who introduced him to the works and theories of Charles Darwin.

Donated from the Dohrn Collection, late 19th – early 20th century

Permanent museum holdings of the Fondazione Mondragone, Naples, Museo della Moda

THE GLOVE SCHOOL

La Casa del Guanto
Students of the vocational education course for glove-makers in classrooms and workshops
Photos 1952-1958
Biblioteca SSIP Photographic Collection

In the first twenty years after its foundation, the Stazione Sperimentale per l’Industria delle Pelli di Napoli SSIP (Italian Leather Research Institute) was a very special institution, and it complemented the aspects that trade schools and industrial institutions lacked.
Educational activities were originally limited to a few Sunday lessons for a small group of leather dyers. It was not until 1902 and the reorganisation laws that the Stazione Sperimentale Pelli acquired official recognition among the industrial and technical schools in Naples, with the task of training glove technicians and conducting research on leather tanning and dyeing.
The felt need to establish a training school for young glovemakers in Naples dates back to 1919, as it was deemed necessary to cope with the shortage of skilled labour, which caused delays and a reduction in production quality during periods of increased production. After several appeals at the national level, the first vocational education course for glovemakers was organized in 1952 by a ministerial-appointed committee and hosted on the premises of the Stazione Sperimentale Pelli.
The 8-month course included theoretical and practical training at the Research Institute and an apprenticeship period in sector companies, thus ensuring comprehensive and targeted skills.

THE GLOVE SCHOOL

La Casa del Guanto
Students of the vocational education course for glovemakers in classrooms and workshops
Photos 1952-1958
Biblioteca SSIP Photographic Collection

In the first twenty years after its foundation, the Stazione Sperimentale per l’Industria delle Pelli di Napoli -SSIP (Italian Leather Research Institute) was a very special Institute, and it complemented the aspects that trade schools and industrial institutions lacked.
Educational activities were originally limited to a few Sunday lessons for a small group of leather dyers. It was not until 1902 and the reorganisation laws that the Stazione Sperimentale Pelli acquired official recognition among the industrial and technical schools in Naples, with the task of training glove technicians and conducting research on leather tanning and dyeing.
The felt need to establish a training school for young glovemaker in Naples dates back to 1919, as it was deemed necessary to cope with the shortage of skilled labour, which caused delays and a reduction in production quality during periods of increased production. After several appeals at the national level, the first vocational education course for glovemakers was organized in 1952 by a ministerial-appointed committee and hosted on the premises of the Stazione Sperimentale Pelli.
The 8-month course included theoretical and practical training at the Research Institute and an apprenticeship period in sector companies, thus ensuring comprehensive and targeted skills.

A RESEARCH INSTITUTE TO SUPPORT THE NEAPOLITAN GLOVE INDUSTRIES

Royal Decree establishing the “Stazione Sperimentale per l’Industria delle Pelli – SSIP” in Naples.
Year 1885
Fondo Biblioteca SSIP

The glove industry in Naples has historically been a major production sector, and has significantly contributed to the economic well-being of the city.
However, during the 19th century, this trade faced a serious production crisis, and specific research was set in place to highlight the causes and come up with possible recovery strategies for the industry. One of the most significant analyses was carried out by Oreste Lattes, Inspector of the Italian Ministry of Agriculture, Industry and Trade.
His report, published in the “Annali dell’industria e del commercio” in 1884, under the title “Sull’industria dei guanti in Napoli e sui provvedimenti che la riguardano (About the glove making industry in Naples and the provisions concerning it)”, was based on a broad discussion between tanners, dyers, manufacturers, main workers and exporters, coming together to outline common strategies for the sector’s relaunch.
The need to support the Neapolitan glove industry was the subject of a heated debate in the Chamber of Deputies’ session of 5 March 1894. The proposals made led to the decree of February 1885, which established the “Stazione Sperimentale per l’Industria delle Pelli (Italian Leather Research Institute)”.
The organisation set out on an intense scientific activity dedicated to leather tanning and dyeing, offering consultancy services and technical support to operators of the sector. From the early decades of the 20th century, the Research Institute underwent significant expansion, and equipped itself with state-of-the-art laboratories for chemistry, leather dyeing and the experimentation of tanning techniques.
A museum for raw and processed materials, and a specialized library – now preserved at the Pozzuoli Headquarter – were also set up.
Through these innovations, the Institute managed to react to the growing technological demands of the industry in an effective way.

A MODERN SCHOOL

In 1963, an agreement signed between the Stazione Sperimentale (Italian Leather Research Institute) and the Associazione Nazionale Guantai Italiani (Italian Glove making National Association) assigned the companies the burden of paying trainees during the apprenticeship period, with an allowance of 150 Lire, without any distinction of gender. Emoluments for teachers also complied with the principle of equality: the male teachers responsible for training the cutters and the female teachers responsible for training the seamstresses received the same salary.
These provisions take on particular significance when placed in the social and cultural context of the time, which was characterised by limited attention to the rights of working women.
The glove-making school, with its innovative and inclusive practices, established itself as a ground-breaking example of equity and progress within the educational and productive landscape of the time.

Glove Percorsi e storie di guanti a Napoli

Mostra che celebra il guanto in pelle come simbolo di eccellenza artigianale, sostenibilità e innovazione tecnologica

Scarica il catalogo

FUNDING TO SUPPORT THE ITALIAN LEATHER RESEARCH INSTITUTE

The training of glovemaker, leather dyers and glove seamstresses was an important initiative to meet the needs of the industrial and artisan classes.
They recognised the glove-making school as an effective means of training young workers in the skills needed to produce high-quality gloves. The initiative has received significant support and funding from many different institutions over time. At first, the Ministry of Industry and Trade provided the necessary support to start this educational project. Subsequently, the Ministry of Labour, Banco di Napoli and the Chamber of Commerce of Naples also contributed to the school’s funding, alongside the ISVEIMER (which stands for Istituto per lo Sviluppo Economico dell’Italia Meridionale – Public institution for the economic development of southern Italy, established by Royal Decree No. 883/3 June 1938, reorganised by Law 298/11 April 1953 and put into liquidation in 1996).
This support network highlights a historic sensitivity to investing in vocational training initiatives, to ensure quality production and the renewal of skills in this sector, which is crucial for the competitiveness of the industry.
The Board of Directors of the Banco di Napoli resolves to grant a contribution of 2,000 Lire to the “Stazione Sperimentale delle Pelli e delle Materie Concianti” in Naples for propaganda expenses, for the ‘Uni-Dea’ seed stimulant initiative, considering the practical importance of this invention for Italian agriculture.

Banco di Napoli Historical Archives, Minutes of the Board of Directors’ Meeting, 15 September 1933 (p. 153)

The Board of Directors of Banco di Napoli approves the proposal to grant 500,000 Lire to the Stazione Sperimentale delle Pelli e delle Materie Concianti in Naples for vocational courses for glovemakers.
Banco di Napoli Historical Archives, Minutes of the Board of Directors’ Meeting, 6 September 1951 (p. 157 bis)

The Board of Directors of the Banco di Napoli resolves to grant a contribution amounting to 500,000 Lire to the Stazione Sperimentale delle Pelli e delle Materie Concianti in Naples for vocational training courses in the 1956/1957 financial year.
Banco di Napoli Historical Archives, Minutes of the Institute for the Economic Development of Southern Italy, 11 October 1951 (p. 36)

The Administrative Committee resolves to grant a ‘one-off’ contribution of 1 million Lire to the Stazione Sperimentale delle Pelli e delle Materie Concianti in Naples for vocational training courses.
Banco di Napoli Historical Archives, Minutes of the Institute for the Economic Development of Southern Italy, 30 January 1953 (p. 255)

The Administrative Committee of the Banco di Napoli resolves to grant a contribution of 500,000 Lire to the Stazione Sperimentale delle Pelle e delle Materie Concianti in Naples for vocational training courses in the 1956/1957 financial year.
Banco di Napoli Historical Archives, Minutes of the Board of Directors’ Meeting, 23 January 1957 (p. 197)

/ Exhibition that celebrates the leather glove as a symbol of artisanal excellence, sustainability and technological innovation /